Thursday, October 21, 2010

2006 Domaine la Roquete, Chateauneuf du Pape

$20 for a Chateauneuf du Pape? When I saw this wine in the Kansas City World Market store (150 Highway and State Line Road), I bought a bottle to try with dinner, not expecting a lot in the way of quality for this price. Wrong! I went back the next day for several more bottles. The back label claims the vines are 45 years old. The wine itself is 70% grenache, 20% syrah and 10% mourvedre.

The wine is not a blockbuster CDP but neither is it lean or hollow. Soft, ripe tannins support the solid fruit which is already showing complexity. Lively and focused, it drinks very well now but could handle five or more years in your cellar. This wine appears to be another example of the world's tanked economies causing a huge wine "lake" that can only be drained by drastic reduction in prices.

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

2007 Martinelli Pinot Noir, Zio Tony

If I weren't careful, I would end up filling New Tastes with reviews of Martinelli's luscious pinot noirs. They are all estate bottled wines from their vineyards in Sonoma's Russian River Valley and the "true" Sonoma Coast.
This pinot says Russian River from start to finish. Seamless and precise, it is loaded with sweet, ripe cherry aromas and flavors, with touches of wet earth and soy. If higher alcohol and ripe fruit offend you, look elsewhere. This is a hedonistic wine that makes no excuses for what it is - delicious.
This is an allocated wine but it should not take you too long to get on their list. They might have some of this wine for sale at the winery (800-346-1627). The cost is $60. There are not many wines for which I will pay $60, but I have no problem doing so with Martinelli's pinots.

2007 Domaine Gauby, Cotes du Roussillon, Vieilles Vignes

OK, I promise this is my last posting on the Languedoc/Rhone Valley wines from the 2007 vintage, but this is such a superior vintage and the tanked economy makes these wines even better values.

This wine is a blend of syrah, grenache and carignan, with a bit of mourvedre thrown in. The intense fruit and spice aromas that leap from the glass tells you this is something special. Full-bodied with high extract, ripe tannins, mouth-filling flavors and a long finish, there is a lot going on here. You could drink this wine now with roasted T-Rex, but this one will definitely improve in the bottle for another five to ten years, maybe more.

I bought several bottles of this wine from the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA (1-800-76-WINEX). The price tag of $40 each may seem steep for a wine from the Roussillon appellation, but it really is a treat. Parker gave it 93-94 and I think it easily merits that.

If they are out of stock, see if they have any of the following exemplary 2007 Languedocs:
Leon Barral Faugeres; Chateau de la Negly (La Falaise) Coteaux du Languedoc; and Domaine de Fondreche (Persia) Cotes du Ventoux. They are not as knock-your-hat-in-the-creek as the Domaine Gauby, but they are about half the price.

Monday, August 30, 2010

2007 Coudoulet de Beaucastel, Cotes du Rhone

Coudoulet de Beaucastel is the second-wine from Chateauneuf-du-Pape producer Chateau de Beaucastel. It is a blend of syrah, mourvedre, cinsault and grenache. The vineyards from which this wine is created are located not far from Beaucastel's estate vineyards, but they are not located within the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation, so the wine is entitled only to the less-prestigious Cotes du Rhone appellation. I have had many earlier vintages of this wine but I think this one, from the southern Rhone's glorious 2007 vintage, could be their best yet.

Although this is a big wine (14.5% alcohol), it is harmoniously balanced with supple tannins and a richness that is not at all flamboyant. It is drinking well now, but another five years in your cellar will pay good dividends.

This wine was priced at $33 at the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA, but it should have a broad distribution. Parker gives it a 92, and I think it is every bit that.

2008 Domaine Huet Vouvray, Le Mont, demi-sec

I believe Domaine Huet makes the finest of all Vouvrays, and this estate has been cranking out these beautiful chenin blancs for many decades. In good vintages they usually make a simi-sweet version, such as this one, and a dry or almost dry version. Please don't pass on this one because it has some residual sugar. The supporting acidity takes the edge off the sweetness, making for a table wine that pairs perfectly with Chinese and Thai dishes. Or drink it on its own as your dessert course.

The apricot and peach aromas (no new oak used here) leads to mouth-coating flavors of green apples and marzipan (probably a bit of botrytis here). The zesty acidity keeps in all in balance and this same acidity will see this wine through 10 or more years of ageing.

I had the pleasure of meeting Gaston Huet in the fall of 1999 at his home situated adjacent to his beloved vinyards (Le Mont is one of three.) Mr. Huet passed away in 2002, a sad moment for lovers of his wine. But Mr. Huet had turned over winemaking to his son-in-law, Noel Pinguet, many years ago and Pinguet has carried on Mr. Huet's work, including making the vineyard management and winemaking completely biodynamic.

I purchased this wine from the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA. The price, $33, is a bargain for a wine of this quality.

Saturday, August 21, 2010

2008 Guarachi Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast

"Wine Spectator" magazine recently gave this wine a 94, so I expected it to be a good performer. I was not disappointed. This lovely pinot delivers the same rich, ripe, seamless style I always find (and love) in pinots from Martinelli and Rochioli. This is a nicely focused and harmonious wine with the signature pinot aromas of black cherry, cola and hints of wet earth. The finish is satisfyingly long.
The only question I have is on the "Sonoma Coast" AVA designation. That AVA is really a joke since it encompasses parts of Sonoma County that are many miles from the Pacific coast. But no matter, the wine has many of the superb qualities you can find in pinots from the "true" Sonoma Coast - those ridge lines (islands in the fog) just a few miles inland from the ocean. These vineyard sites deserve an AVA of their own.
I purchased it from the Costco store in Kansas City (off Main Street). The cost, $40, is very reasonable for a pinot of this quality

Saturday, July 31, 2010

2008 Rio Vaca Vineyards Chardonnay, "small lot reserve"

This wine is a prime example of the incredible wine bargains that can be found today. It's modest "California" AVA designation tells you it has no special pedigree. It originates from a vineyard to the east of the Vaca Mountains (which in turn are to the east of Napa Valley.) Looking at my California map shows the vineyard is actually on the edge of California's Central Valley. But no matter, the proof is in the pudding. The back label claims it was barrel fermented in 100% French oak. I don't know about that, but this is one tasty little Chardonnay that appears to have been intended for a more upscale market. This wine has good structure and focused aromas and flavors.

The price - an unbelievable $7 at the Kansas City Lukas store (135th and State Line on the Missouri side). Lukas seems to have purchased a big load of this so you may not be able to find it elsewhere.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

2007 Pellehaut, Cotes de Gascogne, "Ampelomeryx"

The 2007 vintage in the southern regions of France continues to pump out interesting and tasty wines at bargain prices. This white wine is from the relatively obscure southwest region (south of Bordeaux). It is an unlikely blend of chardonnay and petite manseng, a grape that is normally used in this region to make sweet wines. It reportedly sees some oak but that element is far in the background. This is a completely dry, clean, fragrant wine that has an interesting flavor complexity.
Like the red Faugeres posted below, this wine came from the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA (800-76-WINEX). The price is a very reasonable $11. The perfect summer sipper.

2007 Faugeres, Leon Barral

Here is yet another delicious Languedoc red from the exemplary 2007 vintage. Faugeres' schist soil plays a big role here, as does the fact that the vines are 40 to 70 years old and are tended by a quality-driven fanatic.
This wine is a blend of grenache, syrah, mourvedre, cinsault and carignan. The purity and focus of the fruit-driven aromas and flavors are impressive. Fully ripe tannins mean there are no rough edges to be found. An altogether satisfying wine that is delicious now but it will handle a few years in your cellar with ease.
The Wine Exchange in Orange, CA (800-76-WINEX) carries this wine. It is bargain-priced at $16.

Monday, June 21, 2010

2005 Saint Jean du Barroux Cotes du Ventoux, "Oligocene"

This is another remarkable bargain-priced wine from the south of France. The Ventoux appellation is not on most wine drinkers' radar so good quality producers like Philippe Gimel seldom get what their wines are worth. This wine is a blend of 75% grenache, 15% syrah, 5% carignan and 5% cinsault. It is purple-black in color with pure plum and earth aromas. The ripe flavors and tannins completely hide the 15% alcohol. This wine is a pleasure to drink now, but I don't think there is any danger of it going over the hill if you tucked it away in your cellar for several more years.
I purchased this wine from the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA (714-974-1454). The cost was $15. I would love to taste the 2007 vintage of this wine - it should be something very special.

2007 Domaine du Mas Blanc Collioure, "Clos du Moulin"

Collioure is a tiny French appellation tucked in next to the Spanish border and the Mediterranean. Domaine du Mas Blanc has for decades been the best producer of this wine. The "Clos du Moulin" is mostly mourvedre with a small percentage of counoise. This is a dense, full-bodied wine with loads of extract and ripe tannins, reflecting the fact that the 2007 vintage was one of the best vintages ever for France's Languedoc and Roussillon regions. The nose is remarkably detailed for a wine that has years of development ahead of it. This is a wine that needs another five years or more to show its best.
I bought the wine from Wine Exchange (714-974-1454) in Orange, CA for $23. Wine Advocate gave it a 93-94.

Monday, June 7, 2010

2006 Paraiso Vineyards Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands

Just when I think I am not going to buy another bottle of Chardonnay, one like this comes along (cheap and good gets my attention every time). The prestigious AVA caused me to buy this wine, but I was not disappointed when I pulled the cork. Lively, fresh pear and apple aromas are supported by just a touch of oak. The silky and supple flavors lead to a pleasing finish. This could be my favorite house white.

The Lukas store at 119th street and Metcalf in Overland Park (Kansas City) has it on sale for $14. That is a very fair price for a chardonnay of this quality.