Wine Reflections - New Tastes

2010 D'Arenberg "The Hermit Crab"

2012-02-03T14:19:00.000-08:00

This Aussie white wine is a blend of 68% viognier and 32% Marsanne. I reviewed the 2008 version about a year and a half ago and I find this one to be a worthy successor. Nicely structured with a medium-full body, soft acid (but it is not flabby), and perhaps a touch of residual sugar, which does not detract from this style of wine. A very easy-drinking wine that will match up with a wide range of foods.
This wine has wide distribution and you should be able to buy it for under $15. I would consume this wine within the next 12 months.

2008 Beringer "Alluvium Blanc", Knights Valley

2012-02-03T12:45:00.000-08:00

I have been a fan of this white wine for a number of years and I have become used to paying well over $10 a bottle. I did a real double-take when I saw this wine selling for under $6 at the World Market in Tucson. When I noted the vintage was 2008, I then suspected this was a market "dump" of an over-the-hill white wine. I bought one bottle to test my theory...the next day I rushed back to the store to buy two cases!
This wine is a blend of sauvignon blanc, semillon, chardonnay and viognier. Usually this sort of blend has a short life span, but Beringer can be relied on to craft a wine that does not fall apart a year or two from the vintage date. This is a substantial wine, full of rich flavors and complex aromas. This wine goes amazingly well with Asian dishes. I note on my World Market receipt that I received an additional case discount, bringing the bottle price down to $5.29!

2009 Martinelli pinot noir, Zio Tony Ranch, "Grace Nicole"

2011-10-22T13:01:00.000-07:00

This is another in a long line of successes with this varietal by a family who started farming in Sonoma County well over 100 years ago. They make exemplary syrahs, zinfandels and chardonnays, all estate grown, but my soft spot is for their splendid pinots. This one is from the Russian River Valley AVA and it displays the typical Martinelli lush, ripe fruit flavors and perfectly focused sweet cherry and wet earth aromas. This is a wine that deserves serious contemplation.

All of Martinelli's single vineyard wines are allocated. This one retails from the winery for $60. The Wine Spectator recently reviewed California's 2009 vintage, which was particularly successful for Sonoma pinots. They gave this wine a 95 rating.

2007 Tenuta delle Terre Nere, "Santo Spirito"

2011-10-22T12:36:00.000-07:00

If you are searching for something really different in a red wine, this is a good one to try. Proprietor Marc de Grazia produces this wine from grapes grown on the slopes of the Sicilian Mount Etna. The wine is almost 100% Nerello Mascalese, a relatively obscure varietal native to Sicily. When you pour some in your glass, the light red color would cause you to anticipate a lightness in flavor and structure. But this is a powerful and tannic wine, built to age for a decade or more. De Grazia also produces a similar wine called "Guardiola."

I purchased this wine from the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA for $40. Parker (Galloni) gives it a 93 rating. The 2008 vintage of these two companion wines has now been released and they sell for the same price. Parker (Galloni) gives them 95 ratings.

2008 Turley zinfandel, Howell Mountain (Dragon Vineyard)

2011-10-22T12:15:00.000-07:00

If you like your zins to be inexpensive, light-weight and fruit-driven, you would be well advised to avoid Turley zins. This concentrated, mouth-filling wine is sourced from old vines, which in itself is somewhat remarkable since most old vine zins in Napa Valley have long ago been pulled out and replaced by Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine displays a dark ruby color with intense aromas of spice box and red berries. The flavors are rich, ripe and long. The acid and tannin structure means this wine should age well for five years or more.

This is one of Turley's allocated wines, but given the state of the economy, it should not take you very long to get on their list. The price was $45 and I have no problem with that given this wine's fine quality. Parker rated it 93-95. Tanzer gave it a 93.

2009 Russolo "Doi Raps"

2011-10-22T12:04:00.000-07:00

This white wine from Friuli is a blend of pinot bianco, pinot grigio and sauvignon blanc. According to the folks at the Wine Exchange, Russolo, after the harvest, leaves two bunches ("Doi Raps" is Friulian for "two bunches") on each vine to further ripen for up to six weeks. These super-ripe grapes are fermented separately and the result is a wine that is chock full of aromatics and flavor. You can tell sauvignon blanc plays a role here but it is a supporting role only. This is a fascinating wine that can hold its own structurally with the biggest of white wines. The Wine Exchange sells it for $17.

2008 Hartford zinfandel, "Highwire Vineyard"

2011-07-17T13:26:00.000-07:00

Hartford winery is one of several premier quality boutique wineries which were owned by the late Jess Jackson. This operation has been quietly cranking out top-notch zinfandels, pinot noirs and chardonnays from vineyards located in the Russian River Valley AVA and on "true" Sonoma Coast ridgeline locations. They regularly produce several old-vineyard zins and this is always one of their top efforts.

This full-throttle zin has intense wild berry and spice aromas laced with (but not overwhelmed by) oak. This is a big mouth-filling wine with a finish that is almost endless. The wine has limited availability in the retail market but you can purchase it directly from the winery. Their wine-club price is $55. Now that's a lot of money for a zin, but in my opinion this wine ranks along with zins from Martinelli Jackass and Turley Hayne vineyards, and you will pay similar prices for those benchmark zins.

2008 Bridlewood Winery, viognier "Rseseve"

2011-07-17T13:13:00.000-07:00

This wine demonstrates how great bargains in quality wines can be found in today's economy. This Santa Ynez winery sells their 2009 version of this wine online for $25. The Lukas Superstore location in Kansas City at 135th and State Line carries the 2008 vintage for $9(!). This is a quality white wine at a near giveaway price. They even gave me a case discount.
I initially bought one bottle to see if perhaps it had already gone over the hill, a problem you often encounter with this varietal. But such was not the case. This wine is fresh and focused with good acidity and a delicate but complex aroma profile. What a great summertime poolside wine!

2008 Martinelli pinot noir "Moonshine Ranch"

2011-07-17T12:44:00.000-07:00

No doubt about it, I am a real fan of just about everything this venerable wine-making family makes. They make benchmark chardonnays, syrahs and zinfandels, but I am a pushover for their pinot noirs, whether they come from their "true" Sonoma Coast vineyards or, like this one, from Russian River Valley origins. Every separate vineyard has its own clear varietal identity, but they all share a seamless focus in their aromas and flavors. This one has intense black cherry and strawberry aromas with just a touch of damp earth. All of their wines reflect Martinelli's philosophy of picking fully ripe fruit, which means they will be high in alcohol. But you will not detect that in the aroma or the flavor.
This wine costs $60 and I think, given the quality, it is a fair price. All of their single vineyard wines are allocated, but the waiting list to get on their allocation mailer should not be excessive. You can reach them at (707) 525-0570. Their website is martinelliwinery.com.

1997 Domaine des Baumard Savennieres "Clos du Papillon"

2011-07-17T12:17:00.000-07:00

Although the wine probably does not belong in "New Tastes" since I bought it 11 years ago, I wanted to highlight this dry Loire Valley chenin blanc, not only for its modest price but also for its incredible ability to gracefully age. This wine cost me $18 a bottle and later vintages now on the market are perhaps double that (but still a bargain). Domaine des Baumard is a top producer, not only of Savennieres, but also several sweet Coteaux du Layon examples, culminating with the luscious Quarts de Chaume.

This wine was 14 years old when I pulled the cork. The color and fresh aroma said "new wine" and I had to look at the label a second time just to make sure I had not opened a recent vintage by mistake. This amazing longevity is mostly attributed to the bracing acidity this varietal exhibits when grown in its place of origin. I have one bottle left and I am not in any hurry to open it. If you are looking for a wine that speaks of "somewhereness" chenin blanc from the Loire Valley will give you exactly that. Baumard's wine has good national distribution so you should not have any problem finding both the dry and the sweet versions.

2005 Carlisle "Two Acres" Russian River Valley red wihe

2011-06-29T15:21:00.000-07:00

Although this is not a recent release, I wanted to review it to give you a sense of what is being produced by this exemplary Sonoma winemaker. Although Mike Officer has not been making wine for very long, he has catapulted to near the top rung when it comes to zinfandel and syrah, He specializes in searching out ancient vineyards in need of loving care and restoration. This particular wine is neither zinfandel nor syrah based. It is a blend of 80% mourvedre, 15% petite sirah and 5% other varietals. The person that owned this abandoned vineyard told Mike it was zinfandel but research proved otherwise. The vineyard was in terrible condition but Mike eventually brought it back into production. Like all his wines, this one is full-bodied with ripe tannins and great mouth feel. All of his wines are now allocated but it would be worth your while to get on his list because his pricing philosophy means you always get your money's worth. I purchased this wine in November of 2007 for $35. I wish I had a case of it sitting in my cellar. Mike can be reached at (707) 566-7700.

2009 d'Arenberg "The Stump Jump"

2011-04-24T15:09:00.000-07:00

D'Arenberg is a reliable Aussie producer that has been in business since 1912. Although many of their McLaren Vale wines are pricey indeed, their lower-priced reds and whites are high in quality, delivering a lot of bang for the buck. Such is the case with this tasty offering, a blend of 42% grenache, 33% shiraz and 25% mourvedre. Medium-full bodied (14% alcohol), this wine offers lots of complexity and flavor interest. Ripe tannins and medium acidity signal a wine ready to drink now, although it will not lose anything if it spends a year or two in your cellar. This wine is widely distributed and its $12 (or less) price tag should cause no heartburn.

2009 La Crema Chardonnay, Monterey

2011-04-24T13:35:00.000-07:00

La Crema winery, now owned by Jess Jackson, is quietly increasing the quality of its various bottlings without jacking up prices. This wine is simply delicious with subtle oak accenting the solid tropical fruit aromas and flavors. A nicely balanced chardonnay with no rough edges or excessive acidity. Perfect for immediate consumption, it should not fade in your cellar for at least a couple of years. Robert Parker Jr. gives it a 90 and indicates a retail price of $20. This wine is certainly worth that, but you should be able to find it at a reduced price in your local area. I purchased my bottle from a grocery store in Tucson for $14, a price that puts it in the outstanding value category.

2009 Luigi Bosca Pinot Noir, Reserva

2011-03-01T12:11:00.000-08:00

This interesting Argentine pinot noir is sourced from the Maipu region of Mendoza. The vineyards are located at approximately 2,500 feet elevation. Bosca is better known for its cabernets but the winery likes to experiment with other varietals. This pinot is not a blockbuster - everything is in balance including the 13.1% alcohol. The distinctive aromatics have classic cherry aromas with a few exotic notes thrown in. This wine appears ready to drink now, but sticking it in your cellar a year or two would do no harm. I purchased this wine at a Costco store in Tucson for $24. It is nice to stumble on to interesting wines like this.

2002 Domaine Huet Vouvray Petillant, Brut Reserve

2011-02-28T16:25:00.000-08:00

I love the chenin blancs that are produced by this Loire Valley chateau. Most of the Huet wines that garner the highest accolades are their still chenins which range from bone dry to very sweet. But Domaine Huet's sparkling vouvrays are jewels in their own right. This one is their top-of-the-line sparkler from a great vintage (and alas the year the great Gaston Huet passed away). This wine would give many French Champagnes, costing twice as much, some strong competition. You will not regret tucking some of this wine into your cellar. I purchased this wine directly from Sonoma Rare Wine Company in Somoma, CA. They have a web site or they can be reached directly at (707) 996-4484. The cost per bottle was $40, a very reasonable price for wine of this quality.

2008 Breggo Cellars Pinot Noir, Savoy Vineyard, Anderson Valley

2011-02-28T15:57:00.000-08:00

Breggo Cellars is a top notch producer of pinots and chardonnays. This relatively young winery is located in a remote valley north of Sonoma County. Like the Russian River Valley AVA, Anderson Valley receives a heavy morning dose of fog off the ocean during the summer, giving pinot noirs and chardonnays an ideal climate to produce excellent quality fruit.
This wine has beautiful aromatics with notes of black cherry and damp earth. Excellent overall balance makes for a wine that is delicious to drink now but should benefit from a couple of years in your cellar. I purchased this wine from a Costco store in Tucson - I was surprised to find it there since this is a relatively low-production wine. Breggo has a user-friendly web site (breggo.com) where you can purchase most of their wines. The Costco store price was $22, which made it a fine bargain.

2007 Henry's Drive Vignerons "Pillar Box Red" Padthaway, Australia

2011-01-31T13:42:00.000-08:00

There are a lot of very inexpensive Aussie reds on the market, but I think this one is near the top of the heap. This shiraz (65%), cabernet sauvignon and merlot blend is an easy-drinking red. Medium-full in body with ripe flavors and soft tannins, this wine matches well with BBQ, stews and hamburgers. The price should be around $10 at your favorite store and the wine enjoys very wide distribution. By the way, according to the back label, a "pillar box" is an Australian mail posting box. Red became tne standard color in 1874.

2009 Yalumba viognier, South Australia

2011-01-31T13:24:00.000-08:00

Although you may be up to your knees in snow right now, spring and summer surely will arrive someday, and this is the perfect pool-side sipper. Yalumba makes wines to meet all price points and the lowest priced ones (like this one) do not disappoint. Clean, fragrant, flowery aromas are followed by crisp flavors. Balanced acidity is something that is lacking in many inexpensive viogniers, but no problem here. The price ($9) makes this an easy case-purchase wine. This wine has wide distribution so you should be able to find it at any well-stocked store.

2008 Orin Swift Zinfandel, "Saldo"

2010-12-07T15:01:00.000-08:00

Orin Swift is more well-known for his "The Prisoner" zinfandel, but this wine managed to rate #69 (scored 91) in the Wine Spectator "Top 100 wines of 2010." This wine is 88% zinfandel, with syrah and petite sirah in supporting roles. The grapes are reported to be sourced from Sonoma, Napa, Amador, Mendocino and Contra Costa counties.

This is a muscular and intriguing wine but to me it is most interesting as a complex, peppery "mystery" wine rather than a zinfandel. The wine's personality changed enormously as it warmed and aired in the glass. This is an engaging wine but don't buy it if you are expecting classic zin aromas and flavors. I bought this wine at the Total Wine store in Tucson for $25.

2007 Domaine Puig-Parahy, Cotes du Roussillon, "Georges"

2010-12-07T14:40:00.000-08:00

OK, the devil made me do it. I just had do do one more review on an amazing wine from the 2007 vintage. This once-neglected part of southern France is now alive with dedicated vintners who are determined to get the most from vineyards containing a lot of old-vine grenache, syrah and mourvedre. And the prices for the best bottles have not gone through the roof, partly because of the global economic meltdown and partly because this area of France was once the plonk capital of Europe. It takes time to overcome a reputation like that.

This deep crimson/purple wine is all about complex fruit aromas and flavors with a touch of the underbrush that you find in wines from this region. The tannins are there but they are ripe and make only a background statement. A long finish completes the very satisfying picture. And the price blows me away - $10 at the Costco store in northern Tucson. Parker gave this wine a low-90 score. $10...amazing.

2007 Mayo Family Winery Viognier

2010-11-17T14:04:00.000-08:00

This wine is the most expressive and flavorful dry white wine I have tasted in a very long time. The back label says the wine is "explosive and exotic" and that claim is not an exaggeration. The flavors are absolutely mouth-filling and the finish goes on and on. If the wine saw any oak it certainly is not detectable. Altogether this wine is a testimonial to what viognier can be if it is grown correctly in the right terroir and handled sensitively by the winemaker.

The grapes were sourced from Saralee's Vineyard located in the Russian River Valley AVA. Mayo wines are not distributed outside of California and most of them are sold directly from the winery. The retail cost of this wine is $35 but, if you are a member of the Mayo Cellar Club, the price drops 20% to $28. This is a lot of wine for that price. Their phone number is (707)938-9401.

2006 Irony Napa Valley Zinfandel

2010-11-10T11:47:00.000-08:00

The label on this wine claims the grapes are sourced from a family vineyard planted by the owner's grandparents in 1924. The price for this wine was so modest I did not expect it to show much in the way of varietal precision. I was way off base on that expectation; this wine was nicely focused and extracted. Its 15% alcohol was completely hidden by the fruit and structure. Lovely aromatics and a long finish complete the picture. The cost? An amazing $10 at the BevMo store in Tucson. It has been a long time since I have stumbled on a wine of this price/quality ratio. I doubt that this wine has a wide distribution,but the winery does have a website (ironywine.com)that provides distribution information.

2008 d'Arenberg "The Hermit Crab"

2010-10-21T13:47:00.000-07:00

This white wine from McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills in Australia is a blend of 72% viognier and 28% marsanne. The intensity of the flavors and the length of the finish are what impressed me the most about this wine. I would not be surprised if it had a touch of residual sugar, but that works with this wine. It has a lush, smooth texture and it seems the perfect match with rich seafood and shellfish dishes.

I bought this wine at the Kansas City Lukas store (150 Highway and State Line Road) for $15 and I can't complain about that price. This wine should have wide distribution in this country. Parker gives it an 88.

2006 Domaine la Roquete, Chateauneuf du Pape

2010-10-21T13:29:00.000-07:00

$20 for a Chateauneuf du Pape? When I saw this wine in the Kansas City World Market store (150 Highway and State Line Road), I bought a bottle to try with dinner, not expecting a lot in the way of quality for this price. Wrong! I went back the next day for several more bottles. The back label claims the vines are 45 years old. The wine itself is 70% grenache, 20% syrah and 10% mourvedre.

The wine is not a blockbuster CDP but neither is it lean or hollow. Soft, ripe tannins support the solid fruit which is already showing complexity. Lively and focused, it drinks very well now but could handle five or more years in your cellar. This wine appears to be another example of the world's tanked economies causing a huge wine "lake" that can only be drained by drastic reduction in prices.

2007 Martinelli Pinot Noir, Zio Tony

2010-09-28T13:58:00.000-07:00

If I weren't careful, I would end up filling New Tastes with reviews of Martinelli's luscious pinot noirs. They are all estate bottled wines from their vineyards in Sonoma's Russian River Valley and the "true" Sonoma Coast.
This pinot says Russian River from start to finish. Seamless and precise, it is loaded with sweet, ripe cherry aromas and flavors, with touches of wet earth and soy. If higher alcohol and ripe fruit offend you, look elsewhere. This is a hedonistic wine that makes no excuses for what it is - delicious.
This is an allocated wine but it should not take you too long to get on their list. They might have some of this wine for sale at the winery (800-346-1627). The cost is $60. There are not many wines for which I will pay $60, but I have no problem doing so with Martinelli's pinots.

2007 Domaine Gauby, Cotes du Roussillon, Vieilles Vignes

2010-09-28T13:32:00.001-07:00

OK, I promise this is my last posting on the Languedoc/Rhone Valley wines from the 2007 vintage, but this is such a superior vintage and the tanked economy makes these wines even better values.

This wine is a blend of syrah, grenache and carignan, with a bit of mourvedre thrown in. The intense fruit and spice aromas that leap from the glass tells you this is something special. Full-bodied with high extract, ripe tannins, mouth-filling flavors and a long finish, there is a lot going on here. You could drink this wine now with roasted T-Rex, but this one will definitely improve in the bottle for another five to ten years, maybe more.

I bought several bottles of this wine from the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA (1-800-76-WINEX). The price tag of $40 each may seem steep for a wine from the Roussillon appellation, but it really is a treat. Parker gave it 93-94 and I think it easily merits that.

If they are out of stock, see if they have any of the following exemplary 2007 Languedocs:
Leon Barral Faugeres; Chateau de la Negly (La Falaise) Coteaux du Languedoc; and Domaine de Fondreche (Persia) Cotes du Ventoux. They are not as knock-your-hat-in-the-creek as the Domaine Gauby, but they are about half the price.

2007 Coudoulet de Beaucastel, Cotes du Rhone

2010-08-30T14:10:00.000-07:00

Coudoulet de Beaucastel is the second-wine from Chateauneuf-du-Pape producer Chateau de Beaucastel. It is a blend of syrah, mourvedre, cinsault and grenache. The vineyards from which this wine is created are located not far from Beaucastel's estate vineyards, but they are not located within the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation, so the wine is entitled only to the less-prestigious Cotes du Rhone appellation. I have had many earlier vintages of this wine but I think this one, from the southern Rhone's glorious 2007 vintage, could be their best yet.

Although this is a big wine (14.5% alcohol), it is harmoniously balanced with supple tannins and a richness that is not at all flamboyant. It is drinking well now, but another five years in your cellar will pay good dividends.

This wine was priced at $33 at the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA, but it should have a broad distribution. Parker gives it a 92, and I think it is every bit that.

2008 Domaine Huet Vouvray, Le Mont, demi-sec

2010-08-30T13:42:00.000-07:00

I believe Domaine Huet makes the finest of all Vouvrays, and this estate has been cranking out these beautiful chenin blancs for many decades. In good vintages they usually make a simi-sweet version, such as this one, and a dry or almost dry version. Please don't pass on this one because it has some residual sugar. The supporting acidity takes the edge off the sweetness, making for a table wine that pairs perfectly with Chinese and Thai dishes. Or drink it on its own as your dessert course.

The apricot and peach aromas (no new oak used here) leads to mouth-coating flavors of green apples and marzipan (probably a bit of botrytis here). The zesty acidity keeps in all in balance and this same acidity will see this wine through 10 or more years of ageing.

I had the pleasure of meeting Gaston Huet in the fall of 1999 at his home situated adjacent to his beloved vinyards (Le Mont is one of three.) Mr. Huet passed away in 2002, a sad moment for lovers of his wine. But Mr. Huet had turned over winemaking to his son-in-law, Noel Pinguet, many years ago and Pinguet has carried on Mr. Huet's work, including making the vineyard management and winemaking completely biodynamic.

I purchased this wine from the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA. The price, $33, is a bargain for a wine of this quality.

2008 Guarachi Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast

2010-08-21T10:33:00.000-07:00

"Wine Spectator" magazine recently gave this wine a 94, so I expected it to be a good performer. I was not disappointed. This lovely pinot delivers the same rich, ripe, seamless style I always find (and love) in pinots from Martinelli and Rochioli. This is a nicely focused and harmonious wine with the signature pinot aromas of black cherry, cola and hints of wet earth. The finish is satisfyingly long.
The only question I have is on the "Sonoma Coast" AVA designation. That AVA is really a joke since it encompasses parts of Sonoma County that are many miles from the Pacific coast. But no matter, the wine has many of the superb qualities you can find in pinots from the "true" Sonoma Coast - those ridge lines (islands in the fog) just a few miles inland from the ocean. These vineyard sites deserve an AVA of their own.
I purchased it from the Costco store in Kansas City (off Main Street). The cost, $40, is very reasonable for a pinot of this quality

2008 Rio Vaca Vineyards Chardonnay, "small lot reserve"

2010-07-31T13:24:00.000-07:00

This wine is a prime example of the incredible wine bargains that can be found today. It's modest "California" AVA designation tells you it has no special pedigree. It originates from a vineyard to the east of the Vaca Mountains (which in turn are to the east of Napa Valley.) Looking at my California map shows the vineyard is actually on the edge of California's Central Valley. But no matter, the proof is in the pudding. The back label claims it was barrel fermented in 100% French oak. I don't know about that, but this is one tasty little Chardonnay that appears to have been intended for a more upscale market. This wine has good structure and focused aromas and flavors.

The price - an unbelievable $7 at the Kansas City Lukas store (135th and State Line on the Missouri side). Lukas seems to have purchased a big load of this so you may not be able to find it elsewhere.

2007 Pellehaut, Cotes de Gascogne, "Ampelomeryx"

2010-07-21T09:05:00.000-07:00

The 2007 vintage in the southern regions of France continues to pump out interesting and tasty wines at bargain prices. This white wine is from the relatively obscure southwest region (south of Bordeaux). It is an unlikely blend of chardonnay and petite manseng, a grape that is normally used in this region to make sweet wines. It reportedly sees some oak but that element is far in the background. This is a completely dry, clean, fragrant wine that has an interesting flavor complexity.
Like the red Faugeres posted below, this wine came from the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA (800-76-WINEX). The price is a very reasonable $11. The perfect summer sipper.

2007 Faugeres, Leon Barral

2010-07-21T08:49:00.000-07:00

Here is yet another delicious Languedoc red from the exemplary 2007 vintage. Faugeres' schist soil plays a big role here, as does the fact that the vines are 40 to 70 years old and are tended by a quality-driven fanatic.
This wine is a blend of grenache, syrah, mourvedre, cinsault and carignan. The purity and focus of the fruit-driven aromas and flavors are impressive. Fully ripe tannins mean there are no rough edges to be found. An altogether satisfying wine that is delicious now but it will handle a few years in your cellar with ease.
The Wine Exchange in Orange, CA (800-76-WINEX) carries this wine. It is bargain-priced at $16.

2005 Saint Jean du Barroux Cotes du Ventoux, "Oligocene"

2010-06-21T09:56:00.000-07:00

This is another remarkable bargain-priced wine from the south of France. The Ventoux appellation is not on most wine drinkers' radar so good quality producers like Philippe Gimel seldom get what their wines are worth. This wine is a blend of 75% grenache, 15% syrah, 5% carignan and 5% cinsault. It is purple-black in color with pure plum and earth aromas. The ripe flavors and tannins completely hide the 15% alcohol. This wine is a pleasure to drink now, but I don't think there is any danger of it going over the hill if you tucked it away in your cellar for several more years.
I purchased this wine from the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA (714-974-1454). The cost was $15. I would love to taste the 2007 vintage of this wine - it should be something very special.

2007 Domaine du Mas Blanc Collioure, "Clos du Moulin"

2010-06-21T09:33:00.000-07:00

Collioure is a tiny French appellation tucked in next to the Spanish border and the Mediterranean. Domaine du Mas Blanc has for decades been the best producer of this wine. The "Clos du Moulin" is mostly mourvedre with a small percentage of counoise. This is a dense, full-bodied wine with loads of extract and ripe tannins, reflecting the fact that the 2007 vintage was one of the best vintages ever for France's Languedoc and Roussillon regions. The nose is remarkably detailed for a wine that has years of development ahead of it. This is a wine that needs another five years or more to show its best.
I bought the wine from Wine Exchange (714-974-1454) in Orange, CA for $23. Wine Advocate gave it a 93-94.

2006 Paraiso Vineyards Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands

2010-06-07T13:13:00.000-07:00

Just when I think I am not going to buy another bottle of Chardonnay, one like this comes along (cheap and good gets my attention every time). The prestigious AVA caused me to buy this wine, but I was not disappointed when I pulled the cork. Lively, fresh pear and apple aromas are supported by just a touch of oak. The silky and supple flavors lead to a pleasing finish. This could be my favorite house white.

The Lukas store at 119th street and Metcalf in Overland Park (Kansas City) has it on sale for $14. That is a very fair price for a chardonnay of this quality.

2008 Kanu Vineyards Chenin Blanc, South Africa

2010-05-19T14:46:00.000-07:00

This is an interesting little dry white that also happens to be dirt cheap. The winery is located in the Stellenbosch viticultural area. Chenin blanc (also locally called steen) has been cultivated in South Africa for a long time but it has generally been relegated to also-ran status. This one is not going to provide serious comoetition to the classic Loire Valley chenins, but its rounded fruit-driven flavors, spicy aromas and good overall balance results in a wine that does not have to make excuses.

The price? $9 at the World Market in Kansas City (135th and State Line). This is a perfect summer pool-side wine. I would be difficult to find a better white quaffer at this price.

2007 Luna Pinot Grigio, Napa County

2010-05-03T10:59:00.000-07:00

Year after year, this producer can be depended on to make a satisfying California pinot grigio. This may be their best one yet. Light yellow in color, with notes of lemon and honey in the nose. Not at all watery like many pinot grigios can be. Lots of ripe flavor interest with zesty acidity complete the picture. This wine normally sells for around $16, but the World Market store in Kansas City (135th and State Line) had it last week for $10! A case of this wine gives you a good start for the summer.

1994 Kalin Cellars Chardonnay, "Cuvee W"

2010-05-03T10:43:00.000-07:00

You might think this review should be posted in "Old Tastes." But this is actually a recent release from this winery, located in Novato, CA (northern Marin County). The fruit was sourced from the Wente Estate Vineyard located in the Livermore Valley AVA. The wine is amazingly fresh even though it is almost 16 years old. The color is a deep yellow but shows no signs of any browning. When you taste it, you can tell it has some age but, again, its freshness and vitality would lead you to guess five years rather than 16.
And this is not a one-of-a-kind offering from this producer. The web site (kalincellars.com) offers several other older wines for sale, including a 1997 sauvignon blanc (which I have had and it is amazingly well-preserved), a 1994 pinot noir and a 1988 (!) chardonnay.
The price for this 1994 chardonnay was $38 plus shipping. This is a bargain when you factor in the decade and a half of storage costs. Parker gave this wine a 94;Tanzer gave it a 91.

2007 Martinelli Pinot Noir, Blue Slide Ridge Vineyard

2010-04-23T13:42:00.000-07:00

This wine would be in the final running for picking my desert island wine. I think all of Martinelli's pinots are delicious, but in my book this one tops them all. The grapes come from one of this producer's "true" Sonoma Coast vineyards, located two or three ridge lines in from the Pacific Ocean near the old coastal town of Fort Ross. This vineyard, just above the marine/fog layer, thrives on a diet of warm, sunny days and very cold nights. This last fall, Julianna Martinelli took my wife and I out into these mountains (SUV country indeed) to let me have a look at this magical area.
This unique terroir results in a wine that takes California pinot to new levels of excellence. It is lush but not ponderous, ripe but not thick, deep but not dumb. The intense aromas combine sweet, ripe cherries with an engaging wet earth note. The complex flavors are all about low yields of ripe fruit with careful use of oak in the cellar.
It will be interesting to see how this relatively new viticultural area develops and it certainly deserves its own separate AVA. To throw these special vineyards into the ludicrously immense "Sonoma Coast" AVA is a prime example of why the AVA system needs serious overhaul.
This particular wine is closely allocated by the winery and the cost is $95. There are very few wines for which I would pay $95 but this is one of them. Both Parker and Tanzer gave this wine 94 points.

2007 Jean-Louis Tribouley, Cotes Catalanes, "Les Bacs"

2010-04-23T13:03:00.000-07:00

This wine is another example of the superb wines that have been surfacing in the wine regions of southern France which, until recently, have produced mostly forgettable wines. To top it off, 2007 is probably the best vintage in this region in the last 10 years. This wine is a vin de pay from the Cotes Catalanes. 20 years ago, this lack of any pedigree would have relegated it to "plonk" status, but not so today. It is carefully crafted from 75% grenache and 25% carignan, all from old vines.
The color is inky purple-black. Ripe raspberry and fig aromas jump from the glass. The wines' structure and extract level tells you this is serious stuff. Full but ripe tannins and a long finish makes this wine easy to drink now with hearty foods, but it also will amply reward five or more years in your cellar.
I bought this wine from the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA (1-800-76-WINEX). The $25 price tag seems very fair to me, given the superb quality. Parker gave it 93 points and I can't argue with that number. There is also a similar wine from this producer called "Orchis" with identical price, grape percentages and Parker rating. You can't go wrong with either one.

2007 Chateau Paradis "Terre des Anges"

2010-03-21T16:51:00.000-07:00

This superb wine is a good example of the revolution in wine quality that has been happening in the south of France. This particular wine is from the Coteaux d'Aix appellation, which 15 years ago was known mostly for cheap reds of little merit (aka plonk). This monumental wine is a blend of Syrah (55%), Grenache (30%)and Cabernet Sauvignon (15%). When you pour this wine into a glass, the inky black color tells you this is not old-school wine from Provence. The itense, focused aromas (the fruit is not overwhelmed by oak) and the lush flavors are supported by ripe tannins and good acidity. This wine is delicious now with something like braised T-Rex, but a few years in your cellar will result in something special.

I bought this wine at the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA. The cost was $30 and I think it is worth every penny. If the wine is sold out, the chances are good that can't go wrong with any of the southern Rhone/Languedoc wines your favorite wine dealer may have from the superb 2007 vintage. The vintage is that good.

2007 John Duval Wines Shiraz, "Entity"

2010-02-28T14:13:00.000-08:00

I confess I tend to shy away from any Aussie shiraz that costs more than $20. I love the bang-for -the-buck you get from their wines at this price point, but often spending more money doesn't get you much increase in complexity (you can say that about a lot of wines, right?). But this wine, made from Barossa fruit, delivers that elusive complexity at a retail price that makes sense when you consider all it delivers. Make no mistake, this is a dense, purple-colored, mouth-coating wine with the opulence you expect from an Aussie shiraz, but its underlying texture, aroma and flavof make you pause and reflect on what is lurking under the fruit. Like most young Aussie shiraz, it is drinking nicely now but up to five years in your cellar should enhance that complexity.

I purchased this wine at the Total Wine store in Tucson for $38. Parker gave it a 93 and I can't argue against that score.

2007 Rasteau, Domaine Grand Nicolet ,Vieilles Vignes

2010-02-15T11:47:00.000-08:00

Another example of the fabulous values that can be found in the Cotes-du-Rhone appellation of the Rhone Valley. This one comes from the Rasteau sub-appellation and it is loaded with intense, layered aromatics and flavor. This wine is 80% grenache and 20% syrah, sourced from vines with an average age of 45 years. This dense, rich wine has supple tannins and an almost chewy mouth feel. The 15% alcohol is a reflection of the near-perfect vintage for this area but this wine has not a trace of heat. The price? $19 at the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA. What a fine bargain. Parker gave it a 91-93 preliminary rating.

2008 Anakena Winery "ONA" white blend

2010-01-31T15:52:00.000-08:00

This Chilean white wine is made from a blend of roughly equal parts of viognier, riesling and chardonnay. Now that may seem like a blend that is unlikely to produce anything interesting, but the folks at Anakena knew what they were doing. The back label says it received French oak ageing, but it probably did not see much if any new oak as the wood notes are very subtle. This is a relatively full-bodied white with very interesting aroma and flavor nuances, followed by a satisfyingly long finish.

I purchased this wine at Total Wine & More in Tucson, AZ. The cost was $15 and I think that is a reasonable price for the quality it delivers. This does not seem to be a wine that would improve with time in your cellar, but it certainly would make prime drinking the rest of 2010.

2006 Clos del Rey Cotes du Roussillon Villages

2010-01-31T15:22:00.000-08:00

Cotes du Roussillon is a French appellation sandwiched between the Languedoc and the Spanish border. For most of the 20th century this area of southern France was notorious for the huge quantities of low-quality red "plonk" that flooded the markets. But this area is currently enjoying a renaissance in wine making and the producer of this wine, Jacques Montagne, is one of its quality leaders. This red wine is produced from old vine grenache and small quantities of carignan and syrah, all cropped to produce very low yields per acre.

The wine, almost black in color, is intensely aromatic with complex aromas and flavors that develop beautifully as the wine airs in the glass. The ripe tannins and high extract are perfectly balanced by the superb fruit. This wine is delicious to drink now, but it has the stuffing and balance needed to develop further complexity in a cool cellar for at least 10 years.

I bought this wine at the Wine Exchange in Orange, CA at a cost of $40. Now that may seem out of line for a wine from this region, but this wine can hold its own with any top wine from the more prestigious (and more expensive) Rhone Valley appellations. The Wine Advocate gives it a 95.

2005 Callaghan Vineyards "Padres" red blend

2009-12-11T13:51:00.000-08:00

As I mentioned in my review of Callaghan's white blend below, this small winery located in a remote area of southwest Arizona improves with every vintage. There are several other wineries in the area, but in my opinion this one is by far the best. Kent Callaghan and his wife run the tasting room also, open 11 to 3 on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

This 2005 "Padres" is a blend of 39% Tempranillo, 31% Petit Verdot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc. This is a muscular, full-bodied wine that manages to maintain a nice balance of ripe fruit, ripe tannins, good extract and refreshing acidity. This wine is drinkable now but it should benefit from several years in your cellar.

The price per bottle is a reasonable $28, or $25 per bottle by the case. If you can't find it in your market, you can buy it on line (callaghanvineyards.com) or by phone @ (502)-455-5322.

2008 Callaghan Vineyards "Lisa's" white blend

2009-12-11T13:27:00.000-08:00

Callaghan Vineyards is located in the southwest corner of Arizona, near the small town of Sonoita. This would seem like a very unlikely place to produce good wine, but the 4,500 foot elevation and the volcanic soil make it all possible. Kent Callaghan has been experimenting with different red and white varietals for over a decade and he now knows what works and what doesn't in this macroclimate (surprisingly, Zinfandel just doesn't do well here).

This white wine is made from a field blend of Viognier, Riesling, Malvasia Bianca, Marsanne and Roussanne. Intense and complex aromas lead to a full-bodied, almost chewy mouth feel. Oak is just a background note. A long finish completes the picture. This medium-acid wine would pair beautifully with salmon or any other full-flavored dish.

This wine may be difficult to find in your market. You can order it on line at callaghanvineyards.com or call the winery at (520) 455-5322. The price is a reasonable $22 a bottle, or $19 a bottle if you order a case.

2006 Mayo Family Winery Cabernet Franc, Alexander Valley, Ridgeline Ranch

2009-11-09T10:04:00.000-08:00

I tend to have a love-hate relationship with Cabernet Franc. I love the stuff when it is made from fully-ripe grapes; I hate it when it has that unripe, leafy, green bean aroma and flavor. This wine is one to love. It was sourced from a vineyard located in the mountains that separate Alexander Valley from Napa Valley. Ripe raspberry and black cherry aromas evolve in the glass, showing just a touch of oak. The lush flavors are supported by silky tannins and nicely balanced acidity. It is drinking well now but a few years in your cellar will do it no harm. The wine is available only from the winery and can be ordered on line (mayofamilywinery.com) or by phone (707 833 5504). The cost was $50 but a discount is available if you are a member of their Cellar Club.

2007 Spinifex "Papillon"

2009-09-14T11:43:00.000-07:00

This Aussie (Barossa Valley) blend of 66% Grenache, 18% Cinsault and 16% Mataro is not the muscular red we tend to expect from this country. For starters, the light ruby color catches you off guard. Almost flamboyant aromas jump from the glass, showing gingerbread and black olive notes. Other complex aromatics develop as it airs. The supple tannins and the sweet, layered flavors are very satisfying. This wine has its fair share of finesse - even the alcohol is a moderate (for Australia) 14%. I bought this bottle at the Kansas City Lukas store at Metcalf and 119th Street. The cost was $24.

2007 Colosi Nero d'Avola

2009-09-10T13:58:00.000-07:00

I gained a appreciation for Sicily's most widely planted red grape when I spent a week on that lovely island five years ago. At $15 retail, this Nero d'Avola delivers a lot of bang for the buck. The deep red-black color and focused ripe black fruit aromas are nicely complemented by ripe tannins and a lengthy finish. This wine should hold well for several years, but I do not think it would benefit from extended ageing. This is the perfect match with BBQ or burgers from your grill. I would love to see this wine appear on restaurant wine lists - it would be the ideal go-to wine when you don't want to spend a lot of money on a pricey cab. I bought this bottle at the Kansas City Lukas store (Missouri side).

2006 Anderson's Conn Valley, "Right Bank"

2009-09-09T12:54:00.000-07:00

This Napa Valley producer continues to crank out high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-style blends at prices that make the pricing strategy implicit in many over-$100 bottles seems absurd at best. This wine is a 70/30 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The complex aromas that jump from the glass say "Pomerol" with a California twist. The raspberry and black currant nose has balanced oak support. Full-bodied but not overly tannic, this wine tastes delicious now but will age gracefully for another 10 years. Parker gives it a 95 and I can't argue with that appraisal.
The price was $52 at the Lukas stores in Kansas City. This wine should have wide distribution. Their "reserve" 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is about the same price and it is also lip-smacking delicious.

2007 Argiolas Vermentino "Costamolino"

2009-08-31T13:02:00.000-07:00

With good quality wines being produced all over the globe, I was not surprised by the outstanding quality of this white wine from Sardinia. I have tasted previous vintages of this wine but 2007 must have been an exceptional vintage for this producer. The wine is full-bodied, which is to be expected from this varietal. A rich, slightly viscous feel in the mouth is balanced by good acidity and a crisp finish. The aromatics are also interesting with roasted nuts and ripe lemon notes. I don't think this wine has seen any oak and that is a good thing given the distinctive varietal aromas that can stand on their own.

I purchased this wine at the Lukas store in Kansas City for $14. This wine should have good nationwide distribution.

2007 Frei Brothers Reserve Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley

2009-08-16T11:15:00.000-07:00

Frei Brothers winery has been owned by the Gallo empire for quite some time and this wine proves that ownership of a small winery by a huge corporation is not always a bad thing (although it certainly can be). This zin impresses right away with its dark ruby color. The aromas and flavors are pure ripe raspberry and black cherry. Dense and rich in the mouth with silky tannins. The 15% alcohol is invisible. This wine has an expensive quality to it which makes its price at the KC Lukas store ($18) an amazing bargain. It should have good nationwide distribution. If you like Zinfandel, you would not regret bringing home a case of this wine.

2008 Kirkland (Costco) Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley

2009-08-08T12:48:00.000-07:00

I like Costco for their wines and everything else I might need. When I recently visited their wine section, I probably would not have given the displayed cases of this wine a second look had I not had such good luck with this Costco proprietary brand. One of he best experiences I have had with Kirkland was a bottle of vintage dated extra virgin olive oil from Tuscany - a one liter bottle turned out to be the real deal at a bargain price. So, I gave the Pinot Noir a try ($12.95) and this wine has some authentic pinot black cherry aromas and flavors. Good overall balance and a pleasant finish seal the deal. Now, this wine offers no competition to the luscious pinots from Martinelli and Rochioli. It is simply a light but honest bargain pinot for summertime meals on your deck.

2007 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County

2009-07-31T14:25:00.000-07:00

In April I posted a blog about the 2006 vintage of this wine. This newly-released 2007 version is perhaps even better, reflecting the generally outstanding vintage enjoyed by wineries throughout northern California. This wine is medium-dark in color and has an exceptional balance of ripe tannins, acidity, fruit and extract, with broad satisfying flavors. It is drinking well now but a few years in your cellar would do it no harm.

The Wine Exchange in Orange, CA has this wine for an amazing $12, plus shipping. The Kansas City Lukas store at Stateline and 135th Street has it on the shelves for $15. I think this wine is easily worth twice that price. Why the low cost? Because of tough economic times wine consumers are still buying wine, but they are spending less per bottle. This wine appears perfectly positioned to do well in this market. The 2006 vintage bottling was very large so I suspect this one will also have widespread availability.

2007 Odisea "Angele", Sueno Vineyard, Lodi, California

2009-07-23T12:47:00.000-07:00

This winery produces a number of red and white varietal blends and this was the one that captured my attention. It is a blend of 35% Marsanne, 35% Roussanne and 30% Grenache Blanc. 25 years ago even a hardcore wine lover would probably not know how to find Lodi on a California map. A lot of wine has been produced in this area for a long time, but until recently most of the grapes ended up as anonymous components in inexpensive blends. This AVA has been steadily receiving increased attention and appreciation.

This dry white wine has good acidity and lively aromas of apricots and tea. Some oak is present in the nose but it does not intrude on the fruit. What is really interesting about this wine is how it has captured the rich flavors and viscous mouth feel of these full-bodied white Rhone varietals. This wine is a nice change of pace if you are tired of sipping on summer whites that have little personality. The price was $19 at the Kansas City Lukas store at 135th and State Line Road.

Ridge Vineyards may have been the first winery to source fruit from Lodi and give credit to this region on their label. Please take a look at my "Old Tastes." Scroll down to "Zinfandel" and click on the Lodi 1972 and L1D 1969 labels. I would appreciate hearing from you if you are aware of any earlier bottles of Lodi-identified wine.

2005 Hopler Austrian Pinot Blanc

2009-07-14T14:12:00.000-07:00

Sometimes finding a nice wine is just a matter of being in the right place at the right time. I bumped into a wine distributor friend at the Lukas wine store in Kansas City (Overland Park) and I was invited to sit in on a presentation by Mr. Hopler's son. His PowerPoint show was so interesting I purchased a bottle of this wine as I was leaving. I am glad I did. This is a delicious, dry and refreshing wine that possesses plenty of structure and flavor to stand up to rich and spicy dishes. The winery is located in Austria's eastern Burgenland viticulture area. Although I was suspicious that the wine, now almost four years old, may be fading fast,such was not the case. The cost was a very reasonable $15. The Lukas store on the other side of the state line has the 2007 vintage, which I have not tried.

2006 Martinelli Pinot Noir, Bondi Home Ranch, "Water Trough Vineyard"

2009-06-27T15:11:00.000-07:00

I have to admit up front that Martinelli Pinot Noirs from the Russian River Valley and the "true" Sonoma Coast just plain knock my hat in the creek. I love the seamless, dense fruit aromas and flavors that are found in all their separate vineyard bottlings. But I would ask those who favor more delicate, polished Pinots to give this one a try. Now, there is nothing wimpy about this wine from the Green Valley AVA (overlaps Russian River Valley AVA). This cool site gives this wine a lighter color and a delicacy and finesse that is very charming. It says Helen Turley (the consulting winemaker) sotto voce.

The cost was $60 and I have no problems with that price, given the quality of the wine. Parker gave it a 91 and Tanzer scored it 92+. Martinelli's top wines are available only by allocation, but I don't think you would ever regret being on their list.

2005 Vincent Girardin Chassagne-Montrachet, "La Romanee"

2009-06-17T13:27:00.000-07:00

Buying white Burgundy can be, like buying red Burgundy, an exercise that often ends is disappointment, and an expensive one at that. My wife Annie bought this wine for me last Christmas and I think I should let her do more of my wine purchases. The aromas that leap from this glass are amazingly intense. To be sure, there is French oak in the foreground, but the pear and apricot notes are fresh and focused. The full, silky flavors and overall balance complete the picture. This was the most satisfying white Burgundy I have had in many years.

Annie bought the wine at the Kansas City Lukas store at 135th and State Line. She paid $63 and, given the quality received, you can't argue with that price. You can pay that price for a California Chardonnay with no guarantee that it will be as satisfying.

2007 Turley Zinfandel, Grist Vineyard

2009-06-17T12:58:00.000-07:00

Turley sourced this wine from an old-vine vineyard in Dry Creek Valley. This AVA, a prime location for zins, and an exceptional vintage combined to allow the winery to produce this delicious wine. In typical Turley style, the lush, ripe fruit hides the supple tannins and creates a seamless mouth feel. This is a wine that is all about ripe fruit - raspberries and black cherries with a touch of black pepper. I was amazed the label indicated the alcohol was 16.2%; there is not a trace of heat to be found.

The cost was $40. This is a substantial price for a zin, but the quality is there. These wines are generally available only from the winery on an allocated basis, but I suspect that the economic conditions that now exist will make it much easier for you to get on the mailing list.

2006 Rochioli Chardonnay River Block Vineyard

2009-05-29T13:31:00.000-07:00

The Rochioli family was one of the early Chardonnay and Pinot Noir growers in Sonoma County's Russian River Valley. They planted their first Pinot Noir vineyard in 1968. After many years of selling the entire crop to local wineries (including such notables as Davis Bynum, Gary Farrell and Williams Selyem), Tom Rochioli, and his father Joe Jr., decided to produce and bottle wine under their own label. And the rest was history. Although the Rochioli Pinot Noirs are the most coveted, their single-vineyard Chardonnays are beauties in their own right and provide further proof of the concept of terrior.

This River Block Vineyard Chardonnay has a bright light gold color. Splendid aromas of butterscotch and hazelnuts jump from the glass. This wine is all about layered aromas and flavors but with nothing out of balance, including the alcohol. Intensity and finesse in the same package. Rochioli Chardonnays have a reputation for gaining complexity with substantial bottle age., but the wine is irresistible right now.

Sales of the single-vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are allocated by the winery and this one cost $65. For me, at that price, a Chardonnay had better be very special and this one is.

2006 Robert Mondavi Napa Cabernet Sauvignon

2009-05-16T13:53:00.000-07:00

In spite of all the unfortunate past drama at this winery, they continue to produce some wines worthy of attention. This cabernet has a healthy dark color. The nose was initially closed but it opened up quickly in the glass to show sweet herbal and ripe cassis notes. Lush but lively fruit and supple tannins make this wine a pleasure to drink now, but I think it will age gracefully for at least 10 years. I was amazed to note that the alcohol content was 15% - because of its near-perfect balance there is not a trace of heat in this wine.

The Wine Advocate gave this wine 90 points and estimates the retail cost is $40. That would be a fair enough price given the quality, but I found this wine at the Kansas City Costco (just off Main Street) selling for $20 - now that is a real bargain!

2003 Chateau La Vieille Cure

2009-05-07T13:02:00.000-07:00

This wine is from the Fronsac appellation, which is located adjacent to Pomerol. 20 years ago it would have been unlikely that you could have found a wine of this quality from one of the so-called Bordeaux satellite appellations. I recall buying wines from Cotes de Bourg and Blaye in the early 80's and they were thin and fruitless. They certainly were inexpensive, but that was the kindest thing you could say.

This wine, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, is a revelation. I think it could hold its own against many prestige (and far more expensive) wines from the Haut-Medoc. This wine's dark color and 14.5% alcohol reflect the heat that descended on France in 2003, but the alcohol is completely hidden by the wine's fruit and structure. The nose, which built complexity as it sat in the glass, displays generous cassis and cedar notes, with a touch of eucalyptus. The flavors are full and cushy with deep fruit and substantial ripe tannins. The finish is long and satisfying. Although the wine provides lots of pleasure now, I would cellar it for several more years to smooth out the tannins.

I bought the wine at the Kansas City World Market located just south of 135th Street on the Missouri side of the state line. The price was $35. Since this wine has been on the market for three years, you may have difficulty locating it in your area. I think you would be completely safe to purchase the 2005 version, which Parker gave a 93 rating.

2006 Turley Zinfandel, Dragon Vineyard

2009-04-28T09:44:00.000-07:00

2005 and 2006 were not prime Zinfandel vintages in northern California. Zinfandel needs lots of heat during the ripening process and these two years were generally a bit too cool. Several of Turley's zins from these vintages lacked the lush, ripe fruit you would expect from this producer, but such is not the case with this Dragon Vineyard offering. The vineyard is located in Napa Valley's Howell Mountain AVA.

Dark ruby color. Ripe raspberry and cinnamon aromas leap right out of the glass. Meaty, mouth-filling flavors are fully extracted but not ponderous. Fully ripe tannins. This wine is just plain delicious. It will hold for several years but who can resist pulling the cork now?

The cost was $45. Turley wines are allocated but, given the fact that our economy is in the tank, you might be able to get on their subscription list without a long wait. Both Parker and Tanzer rated this wine in the low 90's and I can't argue with that.

2005 Chateau Teyssier Saint-Emilion

2009-04-22T11:07:00.000-07:00

Although this Saint-Emilion producer has seldom run with the big dogs in past years, the winemaker took full advantage of the splendid 2005 vintage in Bordeaux, producing a Merlot and Cabernet Franc blend that is more than worth its relatively modest price ($30 in Kansas City).

The color is dark ruby-black. The nose was initially closed but opened with a bit of air to display rich cassis and cedar aromas with a complex eucalyptus note. The flavors are rich and broad with generous but fully-ripe tannins. The finish is impressively long. This wine is drinking well now, but I think it would benefit from several years in your cellar.

2006 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County

2009-04-22T10:42:00.000-07:00

It does my heart good to see this venerable winery emerge from a couple of decades in the doldrums and begin producing quality, reasonably priced cabernets. Although the winery is now owned by Gallo, it is being run by a member of the Martini family.

I purchased this wine in Kansas City for $14. 140,000 cases were produced so it should have wide distribution.

The wine is a medium-dark ruby color with a touch of garnet. The nose was initially closed but it opened up in the glass to show sweet cedar and spice notes. The broad flavors and a good balance of acidity, tannin, fruit and extract are not what you would expect from a cabernet of this price. Surprisingly long finish. The alcohol is 13.9%. Very drinkable now but should hold for at least five years.

2006 Juan Gil, Jumilla

2009-04-14T10:43:00.000-07:00

A good friend in Denver gave me a heads up about this Spanish red wine. It is from the Jumilla wine region and is made from Monastrell (Mourvedre). This region can produce some blockbuster wines but this effort shows considerable restraint. Medium-dark color. Sweet, ripe aromas with subtle suggestions of leather and smoked meat. Present also was a distinctive, high-toned menthol note. I could not pick up much oak in the nose even though the label claims the wine spent 12 months in French oak. Perhaps older barrels were used.

Flavors of ripe plums combine with ripe tannins, good acidity and a nice finish to deliver a balanced, harmonious wine. Ready to drink now but it will easily hold for at least two more years. I purchased this wine from the Kansas City Lukas store at 135th and State Line for $15, a price that makes this wine a bargain. I believe this wine has good nationwide distribution.

2005 Hartford Court Pinot Noir, "Haley's Block"

2009-04-13T11:37:00.000-07:00

Hartford Court can be relied on to turn out excellent quality Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Zinfandel, and this wine is no exception. Haley's Block" is a portion of the larger Arrendale Vineyard located in Green Valley AVA, an area carved out of the Russian River Valley AVA. Green Valley has a climate even cooler than Russian River Valley, which makes it ideal for Pinot Noir.

The wine's color is medium red. Ripe cherry aromas predominate with just a hint of cola and wet earth. Oak plays only a supporting role. The flavors are fresh and focused. The cool vineyard site helps keep the acidity up even though the alcohol was in the high 14%. 298 cases were produced.

The wine's price was $47, which I think is reasonable for a pinot of this quality. Hartford Court wines can often be found in the Wine Exchange newsletter or on their website. You can also purchase them directly from Hartford Court using their website. You might also want to consider their 2005 "Far Coast Vineyard" Pinot Noir, which is sourced from a "real" Sonoma Coast vineyard. This wine is more expensive ($65).

2005 Venta Mazzaron, Tierra del Vino de Zamora

2009-04-07T09:52:00.000-07:00

This Spanish wine, 100% Tempranillo, is from the Castilla y Leon region. The wine was priced at $13 in the Lukas store at 135th and State Line. This wine is a good example of the great values that can be found today in Spanish wines. Dark ruby-purple color. The nose was initially closed but it opened up in the glass to show aromas of leather, coffee beans and figs. Good extract with deep fruit and ripe tannins. Nice long finish. Overall, this is a serious, full-bodied wine that would benefit from several years of bottle age.

A note about the wine label: It claims this wine was made "...mostly from ungrafted pre-phylloxera vines..." I can buy into the ungrafted part, given the fact that there are several regions in Spain where vinifera vines can be grown on their own roots. But I am a little dubious about the pre-phylloxera claim since this would mean the vines are at least 130 years old. Possible of course, but for $13?

2007 Tormaresca "Neprica"

2009-04-03T11:19:00.000-07:00

This red wine from the Puglia region of Italy is an unlikely blend of 40% Negroamaro, 30% Primitivo and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. The price in Kansas City was $10 at the Lukas store on 135th Street and State Line. The color is deep ruby. The extroverted nose is very southern Rhone-like with suggestions of leather and dried herbs. A well-extracted wine with slightly rough tannins and a very lengthy finish. Drink it now with burgers or stews or cellar it for a couple of years to round out the tannins. A lot of wine for $10.

2001 Ridge Zinfandel, Pagani Ranch

2009-03-31T09:07:00.000-07:00

A visit to my OLD TASTES page will tell you I have been a fan of Ridge Zinfandels since the early '70's. Ridge began bottling old vine, field-blend zins from the Pagani Ranch in 1991. I purchased a couple of bottles of the 2001 vintage on its release in August of 2003 ($28 each) and I opened the first bottle on March 25, 2009. This zin is fabulous! Dark ruby color with very little garnet hue. Huge aromatics leap from the glass - raspberry, spice and cinnamon. Super-ripe but no signs of jam or prunes. Lush, massive, mouth-filling flavors are supported by crisp acidity. Soft, ripe tannins. If you did not check the label, you would never suspect this wine has 15.4% alcohol. I guess its overall balance is the key. I think this zin can hold its own with Turley Hayne Vineyard and Martinelli Jackass Hill Zinfandels, and that is high praise. I hope you have some of this wine in your cellar.

Rhoda Stewart's fine book, A Zinfandel Odyssey (2001), contains a section on page 319 about the Pagani Vineyard, which was planted by the Pagani family in stages between the late 1800's and 1918. Her interview with Louis Pagani is both interesting and poignant. Mr. Pagaini passed away in 2000 at the age of 98.

2007 Breggo Pinot Gris, Wiley Vineyard

2009-03-25T12:17:00.000-07:00

This wine is not available in the Kansas City area, so I purchased it directly from the winery in December of 2008. The cost was $27. Now, I must admit that California (and Italian) Pinot Gris, particularly at this price, generally leave me much less than enthusiastic and I bought this wine based on Parker's 93 score. Well, he was right on the mark with that number. The color is a bright yellow. Intense aromas jump from the glass - lots of ripe melon, peach and ginger notes. This is a flavorful, mouth-filling wine, but the overall balance allows it to bear its weight gracefully.

Breggo is a relatively new winery located in the northern California's cool-climate Anderson Valley. These folks have hit the ground running and I am looking forward to trying their Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer offerings. Has anyone tried these varietals? They have a nice website.

2006 Martinelli Pinot Noir, Lolita Ranch

2009-03-24T12:38:00.000-07:00

Although many fine Pinot Noirs are produced all along the California coast (and Oregon), my clear favorites are the ones that come from vineyards in the Russian River Valley and the "true" Sonoma Coast AVA's. This Martinelli pinot is a single-vineyard wine from one of their Russian River vineyards. The cost was $60. The production of this wine, and all other Martinelli wines, was supervised by Helen Turley. The wine has that silky, seamless quality you find in any Pinot Noir she has had a hand in making. The focused aromas of ripe cherries and wet earth are supported by subtle oak. The supple flavors are all about ripe fruit balanced with good structure and lively acidity. Parker gives this wine a 94 and that seems reasonable to me. A note on alcohol level, which seems to be a big point of contention today. This wine has an elevated alcohol content, but I suspect a person would not suspect that unless he or she looked at the bottle label. I guess it is all about balance.

The only downside to Martinelli wines is that all of the single-vineyard wines are allocated, so you will have to sign up to be on a waiting list. But, when you are finally on their mailing list, you will also be offered some of their delectable Zinfandels, Chardonnays and Syrahs - they are all beautifully crafted wines.

2005 Archaval Ferrer, Quimera

2009-03-18T10:33:00.000-07:00

This red wine is from the Mendoza region of Argentina and consists of a blend of 37% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. I paid $27. This is a big, extracted wine with loads of ripe fruit and moderate ripe tannins. This delicious wine is very much in the California style. If you like this style, this wine is a lot of bang for the buck. It has all the balance needed to age well for several years. Parker gave it a 92+.

2005 Teruzzi & Puthod, Terre di tuffi

2009-03-17T08:11:00.000-07:00

If you are looking for a terrific bargain in a food-friendly white wine, give this one a try. It is from a Tuscan producer known mostly for its Vernaccia di San Gimignano. This bottling is 80% of that varietal, with some Chardonnay, Malvasia and Vermentino thrown in. I believe the usual retail price is about $15, but I found it at World Market in south Kansas City for $8! At that price, it's a steal. Surprisingly full-bodied with fresh, clean pineapple and fig aromas. I initially viewed this wine with skepticism because a four year old Italian white can often be risky, but this one had a bright yellow color showing no signs of fading. A slightly short finish is my only complaint, but at this price that is a real nit pick.

2006 La Peira, Les Obriers de la Peira

2009-03-17T07:49:00.000-07:00

This red wine, a blend of Carignan and Cinsault, is from the Coteaux du Languedoc (Terasses du Larzac). The most recent Wine Exchange news letter raved about it so I purchased a couple of bottles. The cost was $20 plus shipping. Parker gave it a 93 and he did not miss the mark with that score. This wine shows what a skilled winemaker can do with these two workhorse varietals. Deep ruby color, ripe blackberry and pepper aromas and flavors, full-bodied but not overly extracted. Ripe tannins complete the package.

2005 Mayo Family Zinfandel, Casa Santina Maria Vineyard

2009-03-11T12:08:00.000-07:00

Mayo Family Vineyards is located in Sonoma County and they specialize in small case lots of selected varietals. I purchased several bottles of this Zinfandel in late '08 at a cost of $40 a bottle. This price is the threshold of pain for me as to Zinfandel, but the wine is worth it. A very dark ruby-purple color. Intense ripe raspberry and black cherry aromas and flavors, with a touch of black pepper. Soft, ripe tannins contribute to an almost viscous mouth feel. If there is any residual sugar, I did not pick up on it. This is a knock-your-hat-in-the-creek Zin from 99 year old vines. These wines are not available in the Kansas City area so I buy them directly from the winery using their web site.

2004 Clos de la Coulee de Serrant Savennieres

2009-03-11T11:48:00.000-07:00

A couple of cases showed up in the Kansas City market and I just had to try a bottle. The cost was $40, which I recognized was a good buy. Now, I am a long-standing fan of Loire Valley Chenin Blanc, both the dry and the sweet versions. Domaine Baumard is my favorite Savennieres producer, but I simply do not understand this wine from Nicolas Joly. For me, weird is the only way I can describe this wine - from color, aroma and flavor to the finish. Does anyone have a different read on this wine (or agree)?

2004 Sandrone Barbera d'Alba

2009-03-11T11:31:00.000-07:00

Sandrone's famous Barolos tend to cast a shadow on his other efforts, such as this serious Barbera. Good sites, low yields and oak ageing elevate Barbera to something special. I purchased this wine in Kansas City about a year ago for $27.75. Dark ruby-black color. Classic sour cherry and plum aromas and flavors. Nicely extracted with good overall structure. Ripe tannins and good balancing acidity. I suspect the '05 version has been released and it should be worth looking for.

2006 Bodegas Naia, Naides

2009-03-11T11:08:00.001-07:00

This is a white wine from the Rueda region of Spain. The cost in Kansas City was $26. The wine, in a very heavy bottle, is made from 100% Verdejo, a varietal found mostly in the Rueda region. The vines are very old (80 years) and have survived non-grafted because the sandy soil in the region is unattractive to phylloxera. This is an excellent food wine. The color is bright yellow. The aromas and flavors are focused and show peach and pear notes. Crisp acidity and a clean finish make for an attractive package at a fair price. Parker gave it 90 and Tanzer gave it 91.